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Day 1 – 21 January 2019

Sri Lanka – Negombo

Sun Shine Villa

Total Spent: 10,400RS ($80)

Nothing beats the feeling of waking up in a new country. It’s hard to describe the sense of freedom you feel when you first open your eyes and realise that you’re somewhere you’ve never been before; you’re going to step outside and not have a clue where you’re going and that feels fucking amazing.

I woke up at 6.30am this morning somewhere between jetlag and excitement. Wide awake and with Tim still asleep, I got up and had a look around the guesthouse. After introducing myself to the resident cat and another guest, arranging breakfast and updating friends, I was ready to go. Not sure where, but I just wanted to walk around outside and see what was on the doorstep. I was so thankful that this was my instinct. For the past year I’ve felt as though my independence has slipped away, unnecessarily relying on Tim a lot. I have found myself very comfortable asking him to do things for me (small, insignificant things), yet they slowly strip away any interest in doing them myself. Therefore I started the day feeling pretty happy that my ability to lead myself has not disappeared. This is also the first day I’ve really been able to feel excited, with the months leading up to leaving work dragging on, and having spent the last four weeks with Tim’s friends and family, I’ve not had much time to think about the upcoming trip. Honestly, I don’t think I would have felt much anyway, I have an excellent ability to shut out all emotions and feelings towards a situation until it’s actually happening. A coping mechanism which is helpful but limiting at times (and also results in serious nerves on the day of departure). 

Anyway, there it is. I was up early, feeling excited, I’d asked for the WiFi password all by myself; I was ready to tackle the day.

I had three goals for the day: get a local SIM card, buy mosquito repellent and get water.

We hit the road on a couple of old bicycles the guest house offered us for free. Without  hesitation and without checking google maps, we cycle off onto the main road. I took the lead, casually pedalling along at an easy pace, being passed by tuk-tuks, cars and buses. I didn’t get flustered once. The roads seem a bit crazy there but everyone appears to know what they’re doing, you just go with the flow, drive forward and weave around the many, many obstacles you encounter. I constantly think back to my time travelling with Kath and recount her being the carefree, risk taker and myself as the over-responsible, risk-averse, fun-spoiler. But today, I didn’t feel like that person, I felt so far from the person who panicked and got frustrated making decisions. It’s only day one so I’m sure there’s still plenty of time for me to let that side out. But today I felt like someone different, someone I’ve always envied and wished I could be more like. For the first time, I’m envious of myself.

I set a goal for the trip, to try and make decisions quicker. To try and not over-analyse and over-think; overloading myself with infinite data to make a simple decision such as what to eat for lunch. I made a series of snappy decisions today which resulted in a much happier version of me. I cannot believe how much better I feel for not battling over every single tiny decision and then punishing myself for making the ‘wrong’ one afterwards. I’m not sure what happened today, it wasn’t a conscious effort, I wasn’t telling myself “you must do this quickly”, everything just happened quite easily. I pulled over at the side of the road to buy a SIM card from a shop. I picked the shop just from seeing a sign outside. I know this sounds trivial, but for someone who would usually research on google for minimum half an hour on what SIM to buy, where to buy it etc, this was a big deal. This was followed by decisions I made about where to park our bikes, hotel bookings, dinner choices, the list goes on. Sure there was some umming and ahhing, and a couple wrong decisions. But a huge reduction from the usual performance. Maybe this is only in my eyes, it’s poor Tim who has to listen to it all the time. Hopefully he sees a difference by the end of the trip.

After visiting the fish markets of Negombo and cycling back to the guest house our afternoon consisted of eating, napping and research for the trip.

Now for a food recap. Breakfast, not going to comment on the egg and bread, self explanatory. But we got a plate of roti (he calls it something else, I’ll find out the name tomorrow) and a bowl of soupy curry for dipping it into. This was pretty nice and if curry is our breakfast every day for the next month, I’m going to be happy. Lunch was at a restaurant called Lords which looks like it goes off at night. We had Sri Lankan deviled chicken/vegetables (sauteed in a spicy sweet sauce) with chapati, flippin’ delicious. For dinner we went to Roti Food Corner, which was a street food stall outside a tiny shop. We both got kottu which is a dish consisting of chicken, egg, veggies and roti which is fried and chopped into tiny pieces. It tasted amazing, good level of spicy, although I couldn’t eat much of it due to all the chicken bones through it. I thought I could have small amounts of meat on this trip, but not sure I’m going to manage it. I got a cup of tea with mine, sweet tea with milk, so so good. The guy whips it up in a jug and pours it into a little glass mug which he gave a very quick wash with his hands, but hey, if the locals can handle it, I’m sure I can too.

Sri Lankan’s have to be some of the nicest, friendliest people I’ve ever met.

Day 5 – 25 January 2019

Sri Lanka – Mirissa

Mirissa Beach Inn

Total Spent 12,600 LKR ($96)

Another beach day. 

We went back to No1 Dewimi Roti Shop to try a traditional Sri Lankan breakfast of string hoppers, dhal and coconut sambal. I imagine anyone who doesn’t like spice would struggle to enjoy authentic food here. The string hoppers were little nests of vermicelli noodles which were served with a spicy lentil dhal and the coconut sambal was a mix of shredded coconut with chilli and red onion. It was such a tasty and filling breakfast, washed down with another papaya juice.

After a few hours of relaxing on the beach and swimming in the ocean, we headed back to the hotel to have a beer and look into our trains for India, which we’ve realised we probably should have booked a lot sooner. 

After dinner, which was another visit to the roti shop for kothu and dessert roti, we went for a walk along the beach before heading back to the hotel. We saw a group of people gathered on the beach with torches, turns out it was a giant sea turtle nesting in the sand. Can’t believe we stumbled upon this and got to see a turtle laying its eggs. I read up about it and apparently this is the only time that you could be so close to a turtle as they are in a trance state, their behaviours are driven by the task of nesting. We’re looking into doing some snorkelling while we’re here to see if we can spot any.

When we arrived back to the hotel in the afternoon the owner rushed up to us apologising, explaining that while they were cleaning our room they had whipped the bedsheets off and my phone had dropped and smashed on the floor. I instantly told them that it was fine and not to worry, I felt bad as I know that would have worried them, I don’t doubt there’s people that would have gone crazy and demanded payment for it. Luckily my phone is pretty old and I don’t have any emotional attachments to technology, other than the photos and memories they hold. This has shown me how little I cared about my phone, and I was glad of that. It just felt like a mild inconvenience, I wasn’t bothered by it at all. I think this was a blessing in disguise, a sign from the universe, that I needed to get off my phone. If I’m honest, since I got my SIM card I’ve barely been off my phone. I think when you go on holiday it’s such a good thing to only have wifi when you’re in the hotel and then once you’re out, it goes off. But since we’re in countries for a long time and doing a lot of moving around we need it for the maps. I have been glued to it, not always on social media, but googling where to go, where to eat etc. Although this is helpful for the trip, it stops you from making decisions based on your feelings and movements, instead of asking locals or taking a walk and going somewhere that looks and feels nice, you google and go for the place with the most or best reviews. This is good sometimes for a one time experience, but it also creates this culture of one or two booming businesses as they get bigger and bigger and the others fall behind, not because their standards are low but because they don’t have as many reviews. And often you go to the places that has thousands of reviews and it’s not even that good but you think it’s great just because everyone else does!

Losing my phone has forced me to reevaluate my decision making process. I’m actively working on my decision making whilst on this trip, I think this will be greatly improved if I learn to make decisions without the use of my phone.

We’ll try and get the screen fixed when we get to Kandy which is 8 days from now, lets see if I can finish my book by then with all the extra time I’ll now have.

Day 4 – 24 January 2019

Sri Lanka – Mirissa

Mirissa Beach Inn

Total Spent 13,500 LKR ($103)

We woke up early this morning with no intentions for the day. Our morning started with a visit to a cafe we found on google which felt all too familiar…smashed avo on toast. But again, good coffee. We’re going for a proper Sri Lankan breakfast tomorrow, no more Aussie brekkies.

There’s not much else to report on today, we hit the beach and lay there sunbathing and reading. The water is very warm here so nice to swim in and very salty. I’m reading Big Little Lies at the moment, not quite the classic literature theme I’ve been going with but it’s easy reading which is good for the moment.

Part of tropical beach life includes getting a coconut cracked open for you and sticking a straw in it, I did that as well as getting a pineapple sliced up to take home. I don’t even like pineapple but this stuff is good, very sweet.

The amount of rubbish all over the ground in Sri Lanka stresses me out a little, there is crap everywhere, particularly plastic. It makes me appreciate how fortunate we are to live in countries that promote recycling, or at least trying to do something about it. You see a lot of small businesses here trying to be part of the movement, although there is a huge culture change that would be needed in countries like Sri Lanka and India. I feel like they must be used to chucking stuff to the side of the road or off the trains. Anyway, it makes me want to just live here and go around picking up rubbish all day. I thought it would be a good idea for us to do little beach cleans while we’re going for walks whilst we’re on this trip, maybe we’ll start now.

To continue on my constant self reflection, I’m proud of myself for letting go of control, just a little. I recognise that I am a control freak and feel the need to perform everything myself to make sure it’s done to a standard that I am happy with, even if this standard goes way beyond what is required. The amount of planning that has been required over the last few days is too much for me to do myself, or want to do myself. So I’ve been asking/allowing Tim to take more control and do his own analysis and make decisions for the both of us. I hope this continues, not only for the rest of this trip, but for the rest of time. I have to let go of the need for everything to be perfect. The world will not end if we have a bad meal, or stay in a crap hotel or get on the wrong train. I am learning, I just hope it sticks.

Day 3 – 23 January 2019

Sri Lanka – Mirissa

Mirissa Beach Inn

Total Spent 17,000 LKR ($126)

We’re sleeping surprisingly well considering our last hotel was a mattress on a concrete block and this one was a thin piece of foam. I’m glad we’re not too fussy, our lack of expectations means we’re never disappointed. We decided to go for breakfast at an Aussie owned cafe, I’m not proud of it, but we really wanted coffee. It was a short 12 minute walk and the local coffee was good. 

Even with a tight schedule in place we managed to be late to the train station which meant there was no time to go to the reservation office to pre-book tickets for future journeys. We got our 2nd class tickets for Matara and went to the platform. It was pretty packed and there’s no reserved seats so when the train arrives it’s a case of piling on and hoping for the best. We were somewhat fortunate that we got space in the aisle of a carriage (which was better that being face to armpit with people in the doorway) where we stood with our bags for the first hour of the journey. Eventually people started getting off at stops along the line and we had enough room to sit on the floor, an hour after that we bagged some seats. The last two hours of the train were spent looking out the window at the jungle scenery and doing a bit more planning for the rest of the trip.

A guy came over and told us that if we were going to Mirissa, there was a train leaving Matara station which would stop at Mirissa station. We bought new tickets and jumped back on the train as he instructed, arriving in Mirissa to find it was a station in the middle of nowhere at the end of a dirt road. Both luckily and unluckily, there was one tuktuk driver there. He must make a small fortune waiting there for clueless tourists. 

We have splashed out (and by splashed out, I mean not chosen the cheapest hotel available on booking.com) on a nicer hotel and arrived to a comfortable bed with a great mosquito net (very important in Sri Lanka). We headed along the edge of a river to the No.1 Diwimi Roti Shop to get lunch since it was almost 3pm. Along the walk we encountered a huge lizard thing that looked like an alligator and a bunch of non-violent monkeys. The roti shop has good veggie options and we both got roti with egg, cheese and vegetables with a spicy sauce. I also tried papaya (or papaw, as they pronounce it) juice which was tasty. This place was pretty busy, it has great reviews and turns out it’s a little restaurant they run out of their home.

The rest of the evening was spent doing a painful amount of planning and organising. We were looking forward to taking this trip as it comes and moving where we wanted, when we wanted, but that just isn’t going to work here. We only have three weeks and there’s plenty of places we want to see. Also public transport books up fast, and so unless you want to sit on the floor for 5-7 hour train journeys, you need to plan your itinerary and book your tickets. So with the amazing help of our Sri Lankan friends, we put together a plan and booked all our accommodation and trains.

Day 2 – 22 January 2019

Sri Lanka – Colombo

Backpack Lanka Hostel

Spent 11,800rps ($90)

Today has felt like a whirlwind. We’ve only been travelling for 2 days and it already feels like two weeks. I think because so much changes in a day, it’s hard to think back to what you did that morning, let alone the day before.

Today we got the train to Colombo, this journey started out with Tim experiencing his first tuk-tuk. After the driver getting pretty lost he ended up taking us to the central rail station, 10 minutes further than where we needed to go, and we paid 100rps (70c) for it. Even with the detour we still caught the train which cost us 100rps each for a 3rd class ticket. 

Luckily there was only two platforms in Negombo so the train station was easy to navigate. We hopped on a quiet carriage and stood with our bags next to the open doors. Doors do not exist on Sri Lankan trains, even the ones that have doors have them jammed open, I don’t think you could close them even if you wanted to. On speaking to Gill, my Sri Lankan friend, about this she described the culture as “number one priority is a cool breeze, safety is at your own intelligence”. I guess this is something that western people would never even be trusted with. Either we’re idiots, or the incidents in less developed countries go unspoken/unactioned. Anyway, what a feeling being able to sit on the floor next to the open door and watch the world go by. I chose not to take any chances dangling feet over the edge or trying to get the perfect Instagram photo swinging out of the carriage. It was a great first experience, but not one I’m willing to push the boundaries of life and death for. There was so much observing to be done; people walking down the tracks, hanging out their washing and the landscape was so colourful. We sat next to locals for some of the journey, people here are just the friendliest, smiling at you all the time and offering you seats. 

We arrived in Colombo and were extremely grateful for the PickMe app (equivalent of Uber) to book tuktuks. Haggling a good price can be such a task when you have no idea what you should be paying. This way everything was metered and the driver had our location on a map. 

After dropping our bags at the hostel we headed straight for the Galle Face Hotel, a five star hotel which was built in 1846. It’s right on the oceanfront and has the most beautiful view when sat in the Verandah restaurant. From here we could see where China is creating its own part of Sri Lanka, literally extending the country by dumping sand in the sea. 

This is where we had our first Sri Lankan curry. I had yellow vegetable and Tim had chicken coconut. It’s presented with the rice wrapped in (what I assume is) a banana leaf, with five little dishes of different curry/condiments and two poppadoms. The curry is served on the side and you just dump it all onto the rice together and enjoy. There were so many flavours, so many combinations to try. I’m so excited to have more curries here, I could eat curry day and night for the rest of my life.  

To finish the day off we decided that we’d go watch the sunset from a rooftop bar called OZO. We only had an hour until sunset, so we walked back to the hostel for a quick costume change and jumped in a tuktuk to the bar. Luckily the guy took the route along the oceanfront so we were able to catch the best of the sunset from there. His driving shaved 10 minutes off the estimated time of arrival, centre road markings mean nothing to anyone here. If there’s space on the road, they’re driving in it, even if it’s into oncoming traffic. I’ve not seen one crash yet, they must know what they’re doing.

A few side notes/stories to remember:

  • During our post lunch tea/coffee I had marks all over my arms and legs, panic set in and I googled what it could mean. Bartonella or Lyme Disease was the diagnosis. After half an hour of research, we realised it was how I was sitting on the chair, leaving imprints of wicker. This level of paranoia is new, I hope this isn’t a sign of ageing…
  • Once we got to the top of OZO, I struggled to enjoy any views of the ground below, fear of heights is getting worse. It’s the thought of falling off the edge, I get flashes of it happening and then it hurts to go near the edge or look down. Somehow need to get over this, will look into

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